Portugal has been known for its active production of woollen products, from home accessories to clothing for centuries. The border regions of Central Portugal make up with Spain's Extremadura territory where transhumance and wool weaving has a rich tradition dating back to the 12th century. Translana, the Wool Route, was shaped by the countless paths taken by shepherds and their flocks, connecting one of the most isolated areas of the Iberian Peninsula, making it the most developed in terms of economic and social relations.
“Since mediaeval times, the Wool Route, a historical route full of traditions, knowledge and the culture of the inhabitants and interior lands of the Peninsula, has united Spanish and Portuguese mountains, shepherds and weavers, manufacturers and traders.“ (Center of Portugal)
Glacial Valley of Zêzere, 2020. Authors' images
Serra da Estrela was a place where the routes of shepherds and their flocks met. Portugal's highest mountain range was home, thanks to its rich pastures, to a specific breed of sheep, the Bordaleira Serra da Estrela, which lives and whose wool is processed exclusively in the Serra da Estrela region. Wool processing has become the textile heritage of the region and has been an integral part of the daily life of the local population for many centuries.
Weaving, 2020. Authors' images
At the foot of the Serra da Estrela mountains lies the town of Covilha, where centuries ago most of the wool-processing factories were established, exporting woollen fabrics all over the world. Covilha was rightly known as the 'Portuguese Manchester'. The 1980s were decisive years. The European market was suddenly flooded with cheaper and synthetic fabrics, which completely displaced the quality Portuguese wool, which until recently was sold to luxury clothing houses. However, there are still a few small, family-run mills dedicated to the production of high quality woollen fabrics. They are the last ones who still hold in their hands a cultural heritage that can be passed on to the next generations.
My visit to Serra da Estrela was a heart-wrenching experience. Not only was I able to rediscover its deep wool history, but also its breathtaking landscapes provided me with an unforgettable sensory experience.
Wool machines, 2020. Authors' images
