Lace-making is generally regarded as a minor decorative art, of secondary importance in the history of the applied arts. However, its origins date back to antiquity, defining clothing and traditional dress in every culture. It was not until the 16th century, known as the century of lace, that primitive knotting, as domestic craftsmanship was previously known, acquired the name of lace-making. In the 18th century, lace was at the height of its popularity. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, handmade lace began to decline as machine-made lace was introduced.
Cotton Net lace. Handmade by Ms Catarina Diego Costa, Vila do Bispo, Portugal. Authors photo.
The netting consists of an endless thread threaded on a netting needle, which has the function of a shuttle and by means of which the individual stitches are tied together to form a net. The processing technology is based on the technique of manufacturing fishing nets. The size of the mesh, the thickness of the yarn and the type of material used all influenced the coarseness or fineness of the net, to which the embroidery was then applied. Its execution also depends on the choice of material and yarn thickness. In some cases, the embroidery was created as part of the netting itself.
Detail of cotton Net lace. Handmade by Ms Catarina Diego Costa, Vila do Bispo, Portugal. Authors photo.
Depending on the type of tool used, the type of lace is indicated. This can be a needle or several needles, a shuttle, a bobbin with thread, a frame, a hook, etc. Lace generally consists of a combination of two techniques. The first is the creation of a net, which serves as a base. Secondly, embroidery is used to decorate the net. Lace-making and embroidery have always been seen as domestic women's work, but they have contributed significantly to the local economy and to the fashion business as we know it today.
Base of Net lace. Handmade Ms Catarina Diego Costa, Vila do Bispo, Portugal. Authors photo.
Detail of embroidered Net lace. Source: https://www.casopis-rozmaryna.cz/sitovane-cepce-lenky-maceckove/
My research on Net lace has focused mainly on Portugal, the Czech Republic and Spain. This craft is known in each country under different names. In Spainsh we can find it as a encaje de malla, in Portuguese as renda chilena and in Czech as a výšivka na síti. It is one of the old methods of making lace and has its historical origins in coastal areas. It is linked to the production of fishing nets and the tools used to make them. In the Czech lands the netting needles for tying fishing nets appeared as early as the 8th and 9th centuries in Mikulčice village, South Moravian Region. However the lace netting become popular mainly in the 18th and 19th centuries when they became a trend in the clothing style of the time. In Spain, its production centers were in four locations: Xàtiva in the province of Valencia, Luanco in the province of Asturias, in the Sierra de Huelva in the south-west near the border with Portugal and in Catalonia. In the Czech Republic, centres of the Net lace making were at this time mainly in the regions of South Moravia, Zlín and Olomouc. In Portugal, we can find last mentions about the Renda Chilena in town of Sagres, the Algarve region. In the Czech Republic there is only one artisan who is actively performing výšivku na síti her name is Lenka Macečková from village of Nový Hrozenkov. In Portugal, we can find an active artisan Ms Catarina Diego Costa and in Spain it is Carolina de la Guardia.
In the past, the netted lace was used to decorate liturgical garments, ceremonial textiles, domestic textiles or to finish undergarments, sleeves and caps.
